In previous years I've caught all three classes of GP bikes on Channel 10 or ONE HD. Unfortunately, this year TEN is covering just the premier class. This would be a completely ridiculous decision any season, but the Australian network dropping Moto2 and Moto3 the year our best Moto3 rider gets a seat with KTM?? Stone the flamin crows. Any Aussie wanting to see Jack Miller race is going to have to look elsewhere.
So for the first year ever, I have to download motorcycle racing. A mate put me onto rojadirecta and it's paying off already.
If you want you can go directly to the MotoGP - 2014 Season Index.
Showing posts with label six3seven. Show all posts
Showing posts with label six3seven. Show all posts
New Goodies for the R6
I make no secret of the fact I like to travel on the bike. I managed to get the R1 quite comfortable and I don't doubt the cheap little R6 can be made just as comfortable. Perhaps even more so. In standard trim I think the 2005 R6 is more comfortable than the 2010 R1. Part one of this is the clip-ons, so I ordered some Speedymoto adjustable clip-ons.
Ergonomics isn't the only aspect to travelling. Navigation is also something that requires some consideration. On the R1 I had my Garmin Zumo 660 mounted up, I could plan routes from my office and just follow the prompts. I managed to salvage the Zumo cradle from the R1, and I replaced the damaged screen. All I need is a RAM ball mount for the R6 and the navigation is sorted.
I just have to wait until we finalise our move interstate before I can get to my tools and mount clip-ons.
(Follow along as I set up the R6 for touring by using the #touring tag)
Speedymoto adjustable 50mm clip-ons are almost infinitely adjustable
Ergonomics isn't the only aspect to travelling. Navigation is also something that requires some consideration. On the R1 I had my Garmin Zumo 660 mounted up, I could plan routes from my office and just follow the prompts. I managed to salvage the Zumo cradle from the R1, and I replaced the damaged screen. All I need is a RAM ball mount for the R6 and the navigation is sorted.
RAM Ball mount kit (RAM-B-342U)
(Follow along as I set up the R6 for touring by using the #touring tag)
Givi Tank Ring for 2005 Yamaha YZF-R6
When the insurance company wrote off my R1, I managed to keep my Kappa Tanklock tank bag, but the tank ring that was attached to the bike went to auction with the bike. Too easy, the tank rings aren't expensive...
...except Givi don't list a ring for the 2005 R6.
Application chart for Yamaha motorcycles
I did some digging and ordered the BF05 tank ring. Given that my R6 uses a fairly standard (for Yamaha) 5 bolt tank filler assembly I was confident it would fit. Turns out it does. It would probably fit all modern Yamahas with a 5 bolt filler assembly.
BF05 tank ring fitted to my 2005 R6
EDIT: I thought I should mention that the ring assembly consists of two parts, the universal plastic ZT480F ring that comes with every Givi or Kappa Tanklock bag, and the bike specific metal BF series ring (BF05 in this case), these parts are sold separately. In my case, both the ZT480F and BF05 were lost when the crashed bike went to auction, this would be the same if you owned a second bike you wanted a ring mount for.
Welcome back... Time to catch up.
When this blog started, it was while I was trapped at my parents-in-law's place because of the floods meant we couldn't get home... way back in January 2001.
Well, here we are again. At my parents-in-law's place. Only this time we're not trapped here, we're just taking a holiday while in the process of moving house. Holidays are always a little difficult for me, it means time with the family but also time without access to a bike. Sounds trivial as I write it, but riding resets me. It doesn't matter what is going on around me, all I have to do is go for a ride and every part of me centres. If I don't ride for more than about two weeks 'things' start to build up.
Middle of November, (excuse me while I swear) some fucktard in a 4WD with a big alloy bullbar was on my side of the road on a blind corner. I managed to avoid a head on collision, but in escaping certain death I ended up running off the road. Onto the gravel. Gravel on an R1. Gravel beside a shear drop to certain death. Drop the bike or bike over a drop. The short of it is, the R1 is no more and I escaped with a broken collar bone, two broken ribs and a seriously busted knee. A further complication are the blood clots in my leg, meaning I'm now taking an anti-coagulant, also meaning no surgery until I'm clear of the blood clots.
That was just under 6 weeks ago now.
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The bike was written off. It was insured and I've been paid out. The finance on the bike has been finalised and with the left over change I was able to buy a good quality 2005 R6. While the R6 is the smallest bike I have owned for several years, it's still quick and I'm sure I can have some fun on it. Because of my injuries, I haven't been able to ride it yet. I had to get my mate to test drive it for me, but it is very clean.
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Anyway, I spent the last two years back at school. But school's out, so maybe I'll have more time to publish real stories to the blog... maybe.
Well, here we are again. At my parents-in-law's place. Only this time we're not trapped here, we're just taking a holiday while in the process of moving house. Holidays are always a little difficult for me, it means time with the family but also time without access to a bike. Sounds trivial as I write it, but riding resets me. It doesn't matter what is going on around me, all I have to do is go for a ride and every part of me centres. If I don't ride for more than about two weeks 'things' start to build up.
The very last decent photo taken of the R1. It was written off about 5 minutes later.
Middle of November, (excuse me while I swear) some fucktard in a 4WD with a big alloy bullbar was on my side of the road on a blind corner. I managed to avoid a head on collision, but in escaping certain death I ended up running off the road. Onto the gravel. Gravel on an R1. Gravel beside a shear drop to certain death. Drop the bike or bike over a drop. The short of it is, the R1 is no more and I escaped with a broken collar bone, two broken ribs and a seriously busted knee. A further complication are the blood clots in my leg, meaning I'm now taking an anti-coagulant, also meaning no surgery until I'm clear of the blood clots.
Obligatory selfie from hospital
The aftermath of washing out the front end in gravel
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Leather torn by the impact
There's a knee in there somewhere
The bike was written off. It was insured and I've been paid out. The finance on the bike has been finalised and with the left over change I was able to buy a good quality 2005 R6. While the R6 is the smallest bike I have owned for several years, it's still quick and I'm sure I can have some fun on it. Because of my injuries, I haven't been able to ride it yet. I had to get my mate to test drive it for me, but it is very clean.
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New bike is pretty tidy
Anyway, I spent the last two years back at school. But school's out, so maybe I'll have more time to publish real stories to the blog... maybe.
Fixed. Cut out the old pin, welded a bolt, fitted a bush. Add...
After this failure on my wife's BF Falcon gear selector, I decided it better to fix the design than just replace the parts with expensive factory replacements.
Fixed. Cut out the old pin, welded a bolt, fitted a sleeve. Add washers for effect.
Here's what I did:
I removed the selector arm, ground the back of the riveted pin with a flap disc, and punched the pin out. That left a hole.
I used a small diameter bolt and a 6.5mm OD sleeve to protect the plastic bush from the thread of the bolt.
I welded the head of the bolt to the arm on the back side so it won't ever move. I used a nut on the as a spacer on the inside. Against the nut on the inside is the large mud flap washer, and the inside hole of that washer has a large enough diameter to fit over the sleeve such that it can rotate freely and minimise the rub wear on the plastic part.
The flogged out bush didn't quite fit over the 6.5mm sleeve, so I cleaned out the inside of the bush with a 6.5mm drill. It's very soft material so I did this by simply holding the drill bit in my hand, turning it with my fingers.
Outside the bush are two washers, the first has an inside diameter just big enough to fit over the sleeve and it's purpose is the same as the large mud flap washer... it can move freely and prevents rub wear. The second washer fits snug on the thread of the bolt. The nut is torqued up to the washer which in turn holds the sleeve tight. In this way, the plastic bush moves on the stationary sleeve. Nut has locktite applied for security.
Almost imperceptible in the picture is that the plastic cable-end does not line up directly at 90 degrees to the bolt, so the sleeve and bolt assembly is about 3mm longer than the hole in the bush to allow some angular tolerance and minimised rub wear.
This entire repair took me under 40 minutes to complete and cost me just some odds and sods from my gash drawer. Also, my wife now has an appreciation why I keep all this so-called junk.
Fixed. Cut out the old pin, welded a bolt, fitted a sleeve. Add washers for effect.
Here's what I did:
I removed the selector arm, ground the back of the riveted pin with a flap disc, and punched the pin out. That left a hole.
I used a small diameter bolt and a 6.5mm OD sleeve to protect the plastic bush from the thread of the bolt.
I welded the head of the bolt to the arm on the back side so it won't ever move. I used a nut on the as a spacer on the inside. Against the nut on the inside is the large mud flap washer, and the inside hole of that washer has a large enough diameter to fit over the sleeve such that it can rotate freely and minimise the rub wear on the plastic part.
The flogged out bush didn't quite fit over the 6.5mm sleeve, so I cleaned out the inside of the bush with a 6.5mm drill. It's very soft material so I did this by simply holding the drill bit in my hand, turning it with my fingers.
Outside the bush are two washers, the first has an inside diameter just big enough to fit over the sleeve and it's purpose is the same as the large mud flap washer... it can move freely and prevents rub wear. The second washer fits snug on the thread of the bolt. The nut is torqued up to the washer which in turn holds the sleeve tight. In this way, the plastic bush moves on the stationary sleeve. Nut has locktite applied for security.
Almost imperceptible in the picture is that the plastic cable-end does not line up directly at 90 degrees to the bolt, so the sleeve and bolt assembly is about 3mm longer than the hole in the bush to allow some angular tolerance and minimised rub wear.
This entire repair took me under 40 minutes to complete and cost me just some odds and sods from my gash drawer. Also, my wife now has an appreciation why I keep all this so-called junk.
Ford BF Falcon Shift Link Cable Failure
My wife went to drive her Ford BF Falcon but the gearbox wasn't working.
The gear selector or 'T-bar' was moving very freely, but the dash indicator was stuck on neutral.
Jacking the car up and a quick look revealed this:
Doesn’t look right?!?!
The black plastic thing with the hole in it is the end of the shift linkage cable, it would narmally be pressed onto the pin at the top of the shift arm. The black plastic unit attached to the gearbox is the shift switch. Moving the 'T-bar' inside the car moves the cable, the cable moves the shift arm, the shift arm is mounted through the shift switch and the switch is what tells the gearbox/engine ECU what position the gearbox is in.
The white plastic bush is flogged out, and while putting it back onto the pin meant the gearbox works as expected, it's obviously not going to stay in place.
Obviously, to fix the problem correctly, the entire shift linkage cable needs replacement. This involves some disassembly of the interior console, the cable goes through the firewall and loops back to the gearbox. Once fitted, the cable requires adjustment, and of course the usualy story of re-assembly.
Also, someone mentioned the cable is a $150 genuine part from the dealer.
Upon considering the design, I decided there is probably a more reliable solution...
Here's what I did...
The gear selector or 'T-bar' was moving very freely, but the dash indicator was stuck on neutral.
Jacking the car up and a quick look revealed this:
Doesn’t look right?!?!
The black plastic thing with the hole in it is the end of the shift linkage cable, it would narmally be pressed onto the pin at the top of the shift arm. The black plastic unit attached to the gearbox is the shift switch. Moving the 'T-bar' inside the car moves the cable, the cable moves the shift arm, the shift arm is mounted through the shift switch and the switch is what tells the gearbox/engine ECU what position the gearbox is in.
The white plastic bush is flogged out, and while putting it back onto the pin meant the gearbox works as expected, it's obviously not going to stay in place.
Obviously, to fix the problem correctly, the entire shift linkage cable needs replacement. This involves some disassembly of the interior console, the cable goes through the firewall and loops back to the gearbox. Once fitted, the cable requires adjustment, and of course the usualy story of re-assembly.
Also, someone mentioned the cable is a $150 genuine part from the dealer.
Upon considering the design, I decided there is probably a more reliable solution...
Here's what I did...
Cheap Chinese 'Portable' Static Wheel Balancer (eBay)
I bought this cheap chinese static wheel balancer... here's a quick review.
LSL Clipons - Detail Pics
Sadly, I'm still using the phone as a camera and it's really starting to bug me. Anyway, here are some more photos of the clipons installed.
Clutch side cable routing
Horn cable routing
Brake side throttle cable routing
Red/White 2008 with standard clipons Vs.
Blue/White 2010 with LSL Tourmatch clipons
Brake line and cable routing
Brake line routing
I installed the master cylinder resevour different to the instructions;
they had it right in front of the speedo
From the Townsville 400 Today
This is the best photo I took all day...
I didn't take many photo's since I was just using my phone and they generally turn out crap. Besides that, the action on track is almost impossible to capture through the safety fences, I wasted a lot of time last year trying...
We had a fantastic day, though I am knackered now.
Removing the OEM R1 Clipons
This isn't going to be a detailed tutorial, you'll need to support the front end of the bike, which means a specialist stand. If you have one, chances are you've done work like this before.
1. Support the rear of the bike on a paddock stand, support the front on a steering stem paddock stand.
2. Remove the clutch-side grip. Here's a tip for dealing with the OEM grip glue:
3. Loosen everything off; clipons, brake/clutch levers, brake reservoir, etc.
4. Loosen fork clamps; bottom first, steering damper mount required loosening also, then the top ones.
5. Drag the forks down far enough to remove clipons.
6. Slide the clipons out of the switch gear.
Now you're ready to install the new clipons.
1. Support the rear of the bike on a paddock stand, support the front on a steering stem paddock stand.
2. Remove the clutch-side grip. Here's a tip for dealing with the OEM grip glue:
Use a wire coat hanger, bend it like this
Trim one end like this
Keeping the long edge of the sharp tip against the bar, insert it between the grip and bar.
Don't worry if you can get it all the way in, just use the crank handle and wind it around.
It might take a couple of laps, but eventually you'll have split the glue and can slide the grip off.
3. Loosen everything off; clipons, brake/clutch levers, brake reservoir, etc.
4. Loosen fork clamps; bottom first, steering damper mount required loosening also, then the top ones.
5. Drag the forks down far enough to remove clipons.
6. Slide the clipons out of the switch gear.
Now you're ready to install the new clipons.
Today's Mail
Evotech Performance Fender Eliminator
LSL Tourmatch Clipons
Comparison between Yamaha's OEM R1 and LSL Tourmatch clipons.
Quite a difference!
To change the clipons you need to drop the forks out, which I managed to get done this afternoon, inserted the new clipons and buttoned the triple clamps back up, the bike is back on the ground. On the weekend I'll strip off the OEM rubber brake lines and punch the holes for the switch gear... it's going to be a fiddly job to line everything up, but I can't wait to ride it!
DIY Air Intake System (AIS) Block Off Install
We've all seen those really cool AIS block off plates, and they're not that expensive or difficult to install. Why do we need them? Some will say weight, but they weigh naff all so I call that a wank. I fitted them to the FZ1, and immediately that annoying popping on deceleration was completely gone. It's no surprise that the R1 with the GYTR pipes is popping and carrying on like the guns of Navarone.
Time to fix all that popping. But I couldn't be bothered waiting days (more like weeks) for the parts to turn up... and I had some stuff in the shed I figure I can achieve the same result.
This is all you'll need:
1. Lift the tank; remove the rider seat, remove the two phillips screws retaining the dress panels, slide panels forward to release them. There is no need for force. Remove the 5mm front tank bolt just behind the head stem, remove the two 5mm hex head bolts from the side of the tank. Lift the tank and support however you prefer. Fanatics might like to completely remove the tank. Damn fanatics.
Yamaha's AIS - pumps fresh air into the exhaust to cheat CO emissions testing
Time to fix all that popping. But I couldn't be bothered waiting days (more like weeks) for the parts to turn up... and I had some stuff in the shed I figure I can achieve the same result.
This is all you'll need:
Pliers, #2 Phillips, flat blade, stumpy flat, 5mm hex key,
1/2" carby bungs (x3), stainless steal hose clamps (x3), zippy tie
As always, you'll need a rag (not shown)
The three 1/2" carby bungs
Tank side bolt under dress panel
Lifted tank supported on a rod
2. Disconnect the fuel line to the airbox; pull up the orange sleeve, pinch the blue buttons, gently remove the fuel line, there is no need for force it should disconnect easily. Catch fuel dribbles with a rag.
3. Disconnect the injector loom; follow it down to adjacent to the chassis. Again, no force needed, just a gentle press of the clip and the connector should come apart easily.
4. Remove the phillips screws, remove airbox lid.
5. Disconnect the upper velocity stacks; the plastic control arms attach with a 'C' shaped cross section and you can gently pop these apart. Remove both the upper and lower control arms to allow complete removal of the upper velocity stacks. Disconnect the servo push rod (with the white block) is the same fashion.
Upper velocity stacks removed
6. Remove the six hex head bolts retaining the lower velocity stacks.
7. Remove the lower airbox; as you lift it out, you'll need to trace the servo motor loom and disconnect it. You'll also need to disconnect the two 1/2" air hoses (one at the rear, one on the throttle side), and gently persuade the air intake duct to disconnect.
Removing the airbox lower - Throttle side air hose
Removing the airbox lower - Servo motor loom
8. Remove the airbox intake funnel; disconnect the blue connector attached to the sensor, and slide the opaque connector off it's retainer. Extract the intake funnel from the intake boots; the intake boots from each side intake tube feed inside the intake funnel. They are pretty flexible, so a little wiggling is in order. There is a grey plastic nipple in the middle of the funnel, surrounded by a rubber grommet... apply pressure to the nipple as you extract the funnel.
Blue connector disconnected, opaque connector removed from it's retainer
Intake funnel.
Note the grey nipple-like thing and grommet in the middle; press here!
9. Remove the AIS motor and associated hoses; pretty easy and shouldn't really need explaining.
AIS about to be removed!
10. Fit the 1/2" carby bungs to the AIS intake ports; secure with stainless steel hose clamps. Don't over tighten, just make them secure.
Carby bungs fitted to AIS ports and secured with hose clamps
11. Zippy tie the opaque AIS loom connector; to the adjacent loom to ensure it doesn't interfere with the radiator fan.
12. Fit the 1/2" carby bung to the throttle side airbox lower AIS port.
13. Assembly is the reversal of the procedure above! You should have fitted just the rear air hose to the airbox lower.
Now when you close off the throttle on deceleration, Vietnam veterans won't have flashbacks!
UPDATE: More photos and description of an AIS block off plate installation on the R1 forum. You might need to be logged in to see the pics, though.
New R1 Parts - LSL Tour Match (150Y120)
The R1 is a massive technological improvement over the FZ1N, the engine drive out of turns is fantastic, gearbox is smooth, dash computer functionality is comprehensive, and the fairing offers protection on the highway... but one thing I don't like is the feeling that I am hanging onto the front axle.
So I've ordered a set of LSL Tourmatch clip-ons. These are made model specific and come as a complete bolt-on solution.
UPDATE 7th July 2011: Install has begun! Related posts here...
These new clip-ons will raise my wrists 70mm up and bring me 10mm back, I figure they should be good enough for a three inch improvement at the shoulders.
They are a complete kit, and as far as I can tell come with a braided front brake line to accommodate the extra lift at the brake master, and 6mm spacers to lift the fairing to make room at full steering lock.
You can find LSL's clip-on range for your model in this embedded webpage (from their website).
So I've ordered a set of LSL Tourmatch clip-ons. These are made model specific and come as a complete bolt-on solution.
UPDATE 7th July 2011: Install has begun! Related posts here...
These new clip-ons will raise my wrists 70mm up and bring me 10mm back, I figure they should be good enough for a three inch improvement at the shoulders.
They are a complete kit, and as far as I can tell come with a braided front brake line to accommodate the extra lift at the brake master, and 6mm spacers to lift the fairing to make room at full steering lock.
You can find LSL's clip-on range for your model in this embedded webpage (from their website).
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